set idle from throttle body a bit higher.. round 750

Re: Smart lock non start
It may be poor soldering or possibly bad contacts on the connector. The controller that lives above the handbrake is the give away here; you could always pull it out and try to fix it carefully.

I work near Ultratune tune and asked the guys there and they told me it was the smartlock controller and showed me the trick of bumping the dash, near the handbrake to get the car going. They also quoted me a new controller, between $200 and $300. Naturally, I bumped my dash for the next couple of weeks thinking about it.
I asked around where-ever I was, and found a autoelec ( Autolites) who explained the problem exactly, pulled the controller out in front of me, showed me the (2) broken solder joints, fixed them, put the controller back, all in about 35 mins.

By the way Coast did you have to leave the ignition on for 30min for the module to relearn the ignition codes ?
I asked him if he had to reset, (re-learn) the ignition, he said no, only if it was replaced with a knew one (or another one from another vehicle). Because it was only a repair, he just took it out, fixed it, put it back and away it went.

if you sit in the car, right in front of your left knee in between the steering column and the stereo, right behind this panel is the BCM which the smartlock is controlled from. its green in color i believe.

First up are you getting fuel to the cylinders?
Check all the electrical conections to the injectors if you aren't getting fuel to the cylinders.
I'd do a compression test if you are getting fuel or simply take the rocker cover off and check that the valve train is working normally and all valve timing marks line up properly. Also check the ignition timing.
To get the motor to run you need fuel spark and compression all happening at the right time.
I had a similar prob with my ea but it was getting too much fuel and flooding the plugs.

When you have cranked it over without it starting pull out the spark plugs and see it they are wet.
I check for spark and this has to be happening at the right time.
Fuel.
Compression.
Re check valve timing to make sure it hasn't jumped a tooth.
Check ignition timing to make sure the spark is at the right cylinder at the right time.

Next time it plays up, hold the key in the crank position and thump the dash with the palm of your hand to the left of the steering column. If it turns over you have a faulty body electronics module. 9 times out of 10 with the symptoms you have described, this will be the problem.

had that problem about 2 months ago!! so i bashed the dash a couple time and it hasn't done it since!!

possibly neutral safety switch, if you from park to d and back again a few times does it then start nicely or hit the dash left side of the steering colomn

when it doesn't start, hold the key to the starting position for another 15 secs, usually it will start. When it doesnt, I just trying jiggling the gearshift and turning the key profusely. It will be the reason I get rid of the car

Ok Hudo try taking the main coil lead off so you are getting no spark at all to the cylinders. Then crank the motor for a reason amount of time a minute should do it prob best to do it in a couple of bursts so you don't over heat the starter motor.
Then pull your plugs out and see if they are wet.
You can check the valve timing by the mark on the cam shaft sprocket and the timing marks on the front pulley.
Also if you set it up so that the timing is at btdc on number one cylinder by the crankshaft pulley timing then pull out number one plug and earth it. Then rock the motor back ward and forward easiest by using a socket on the c/shaft pulley retaining bolt with the ignition on you should be able to see the plug spark. When it sparks relate this to the timing marks this will give you a good starting point as too if you are getting spark at the right time. Its easier to do this if you pull all the plugs out so u aren't working against compression. If You do this becareful to make sure the other leads don't short out.
That should give you good indications as to whether you are getting fuel and spark at the right time and if there aren't any bigger probs if the valve timing checks out then you should be getting compression at the right time.

Orange spark is a weak spark - should be a nice blue spark. An orange spark may not spark at all under compression conditions and is an indication of a faulty ignition system. I'd still be trying another coil or looking at the distributor module.